What in the world is Cymbopogon Schoenanthus and what is it doing in my moisturizer? It's lemongrass extract.
Aloe Vera versus Allantoin...Emollients versus Humectants...Sorbitol versus Tocopheryl...
No wonder so many people are confused by the many choices in "natural" and "organic" personal care products.
The ingredient names are often unfamiliar for several reasons.
INCI names such as Cymbopogon Schoenanthus are the correct way to list cosmetic ingredients on a label.
INCI stands for International Nomenclature for Cosmetic Ingredients and was developed
as a universal language so there can be transparency in labeling. Although it may be a bit confusing,
this system ensures that the real identity of an ingredient can't be cleverly hidden behind a cute
description like "from coconut" or "natural citrus preservative". This way you know exactly what is and
isn't in our products.
The FDA also requires that the chemical name be listed, even for such common ingredients as Vitamin E, aka, TOCOPHERYL ACETATE. So, it may not be easy to identify even well-known
botanical ingredients.
We hope this glossary of common ingredients, definitions and information will provide a convenient quick
reference and aid in clearing the confusion. It is by no means complete--we will be adding to it constantly.
And, please remember "the whole is often greater than the sum of its parts." A single ingredient may possess
beneficial qualities, but at Kiss My Face we believe that the right formulation of ingredients, combined to
maximize their individual natural benefits, will always be most effective.
yarrow,
cleansing herb, good for inflammation, eczema, oily skin, prevention
of baldness, good for sensitive and damaged skin
Aesculus
Hippocastanum
horse
chestnut, extract from a flowering tree, increases blood circulation,
anti-inflammatory, astringent
Algae
Extract
soothes
and moisturizes skin, thickening agent
Alkyl
Benzoate
plant
derived vegetable fatty acid, emollient, thickener, water dispersant
Allantoin
from
comfrey root, healing, soothing, anti-irritant, stimulates healthy
tissue formation, promotes healing, protects and softens
Almond
Meal
smooths
and softens the skin, exfoliates dead skin cells
Almond
Oil
vegetable
oil from almonds, emollient, protects skin, relieves irritation and
inflammation
Aloe Butter
aloe in a
coconut oil base
Aloe
Vera
used
medicinally for thousands of years for effective healing and soothing,
can help with acne and eczema
Alpha Arbutin
brightening
agent, promotes lightening and an even skin tone, plant source (an
extract of bearberry plant), blocks the formation of melanin, can reduce
the degree of tanning after UV exposure
Alpha
Hydroxy Acids
derived
from sugars in certain plants, anti-aging, rejuvenates the skin's
natural exfoliation process, removes layers of dead skin,smoothes
wrinkles, stimulates production of collagen, minimizes enlarged pores
Alpha
Lipoic Acid
natural
antioxidant molecule found in every cell of the body, slows down
the skin aging process, reduces the appearance of fine lines and
wrinkles, improves the appearance of skin, reduces damage from free
radicals, anti-inflammatory
seeds
from the tropical achiote tree, used for natural coloring, antioxidant
Anthemis
Nobilis
chamomile,
soothing, softening effect on skin, conditioning for hair, effective
for treating inflamed skin
Antibacterial
substance
that kills bacteria
Anti-inflammatory
substance
which reduces inflammation (swelling)
Antimicrobial
substance
that kills or slows the growth of microbes like bacteria, fungi,
viruses or parasites
Antioxidant
The
environment can severely damage skin by oxidizing and deteriorating
cells in the form of free radicals. Antioxidants fight free radicals
and prevent much of this damage.
Antiseptic
agent
that kills or inhibits the growth of microorganisms externally
Apricot
Kernel Oil
light
textured vegetable oil from apricots with moisturizing properties,
easily absorbed, high in Vitamin E
Arnica
herbal
extract, nourishing and anti-inflammatory, promotes circulation,
soothes sore muscles
Articum Lappa
Burdock: plant, strengthens hair, helps restore smoothness to skin, helpful in the treatment of eczema, reduces inflammation, and soothes irritated skin
Ascorbyl
Palmitate
fat
soluable derivative of vitamin C, antioxidant, preservative
Astringent
substance
that shrinks or constricts body tissues, relieves minor skin irritation
Avena
Sativa
oat
protein, anti-irritant, hydrating, soothing, antioxidant, reduces
damage caused by free radicals and reduces the formation of sunburn
cells, emollient
Avobenzone
effective
FDA approved, broad spectrum sunscreen, effective for complete UVA
and UVB protection
vegetable
fatty acid, emollient and thickening agent
Calcium
Ascorbate
ester
C form of Vitamin C, antioxidant, penetrates into the skin to help
with collagen production, anti-aging
Calendula
marigold,
soothes, heals, restores, known for it's regenerative and anti-inflammatory
properties, good for irritated skin
Calendula
officinalis
marigold,
antiseptic, heals chapped skin, soothing, good for sensitive skin,
regenerative
Calophyllum
oil
from
a tree native to Polynesia, emollient, anti-inflammatory, healing,
soothing, antioxidant
Camellia
Sinensis
green
tea, antioxidant, can prevent DNA damage to skin, soothing, anti-inflammatory,
astringent, enhances cell function, helps protect against sun damage
Camphor
from
the camphor laurel, an asian evergreen tree, soothing, helpful for
chapped skin
Cananga
Odorata
ylang
ylang, herb beneficial for inflamed, irritated skin and controlling
acne, soothing effect on mind and body
coconut
derived humectant, emollient, preservative, increases the antimicrobial
activity of certain preservatives, a.k.a. 1, 2 octanediol
Carbomer
from vegetable
cellulose, thickening agent, stabilizer, helps prolong the shelf
life of products
Carboxymethyl
Chitosan
derived
from chitin, a cellulose like compound found in fungi and crustachean
shells, antibacterial, emulsifier, very hydrating
Carica Papaya
papaya, rejuvenating, anti-aging,
antioxidant
Carotene
beta
carotene, vitamin A, used as a coloring
Carrot
Seed Oil
plant
oil, emollient, improves skin elasticity and tone, combats wrinkles,
helps repair damaged tissue, good for sensitve/mature skin
Carthamus
Tinctorius
vegetable
oil from safflower seeds with softening properties, emollient, high
in linoleic acid, penetrates skin easily, moisturizing
Cassava
Tapioca Root Starch: natural plant thickener
Castor
Oil
extracted
from the seed of the castor plant, part alcohol and part oil, composed
mainly of ricinoleic acid (87%), a fatty acid, healing, moisturizing,
a.k.a. palm christi
Cedar
plant,
antiseptic, astringent, good for dandruff, eczema, itchy skin and
scalp, hair loss, balancing and calming effect on mood
Centella
Asiatica
herb,
gotu cola, antibacterial, thickener, dry sensitive skin care, tones
and brightens all skin types
Cera Alba
Beeswax: purified wax from the honey comb of the bee, skin softener, antioxidant properties, and emulsifier
Cetearyl
Alcohol
from
coconut oil, used as an emulsifier, emollient, thickener
Cetearyl
Glucoside
from
corn and coconut oil, moisturizing, mild skin-friendly emulsifier
Ceteth-20
Phosphate
derivitive
of cetyl alcohol (from coconut oil), emollient, conditioner, emulsifier
Cetyl
Alcohol
from
coconut oil, emulsifier, emollient, not related to isopropyl alcohol,
not drying
Cetyl
Esters
from
coconut oil, thickening agent and emollient
Chamomile
calming,
soothing, effective in treating sensitive inflamed skin
Chamomilla
Recutita
chamomile,
calming, soothing, effective in treating inflamed, sensitive skin,
conditioning for hair
Chelating
Agent
substance
which can chemically bond with metals, minerals or other materials,
used in cosmetics to reduce cloudiness
Chlorophillin
Copper Complex
water soluble
derivative of chlorophyll, natural coloring, deodorant and healing
properties
Chondus
Crispus
irish
moss, a.k.a. carrageen, seaweed, emollient, thickener, binder, hydrating,
nourishing, good for problem skin, eczema
Chu
Hua
chrysanthemum,
anti-inflammatory, clarifying
Cinnamomum
Camphora
camphor,
from the Asian Evergreen tree, soothing, helpful for chapped skin
carrot
seed extract, emollient oil, improves skin tone, good for sensitive/mature
skin, rejuvenating, combats wrinkles
Dandelion
plant,
clears up acne, eczema, skin clarifier
Decyl
Glucoside
extremely mild
corn derived cleanser, foaming agent, non irritating, good for sensitive
skin
Dicetyl
Phosphate
derived
from vegetable fatty acids, emulsifier
Dihydroxyacetone
vegetable
based (from sugar beets or sugar cane) tanning agent, a keto sugar
reacts with the keretin protein in the top layer of skin to create
the look of a tan, molecules of this ingredient are too large to
penetrate the skin any deeper than the top layer
Dimethicone
derived from
silica, a substance that occurs naturally in sand and rocks, emollient,
skin protector and friction reducer, moisturizing, detangling agent
herb,
anti-inflammatory, emollient, astringent, antiseptic, good for dry
skin
Emollient
an
ingredient that softens skin and prevents moisture loss
Emulsifier
ingredient
added to promote the formation of a stable mixture (emulsion) of
oil and water
Emusifying
Wax
coconut
derived emulsifier, stabilizer and thickener
Equitsetum Avense
Horsetail Leaf Extract: herb high in silica, firms skin and promotes healing, in hair products, strengthens the hair shaft, adds shine and elasticity, rich in minerals
Erythrulose
naturally
ocurring sugar derivative, self tanner
Ester
compound
formed by combining an acid with an alcohol, in cosmetics, usually
an emollient
Ester
C
combination
form of vitamin C that contains mainly calcium ascorbate, anti-aging,
antioxidant, stimulates collagen production, rebuilds damaged skin
plant,
revitalizing, stimulating and firming qualities, anti-aging, antioxidant
Ginseng
plant,
rejuvenating, nourishing, toning, good for mature skin
Glycerin/Glycerol
from
vegetable oil, humectant, long used as a skin beautifier, pulls water
from the air and binds it to the skin, a by-product of the soap making
process, emollient
Glycerol
Stearate
made
from glycerine and stearic acid, which is derived from palm and soy
oil, emulcifier, humectant, thickener
Glyceryl
Caprylate
derived
from coconut and palm fatty acids and glycerine, moisturizer, natural
preservative, emulsifer, humectant
Glyceryl
Stearate SE
made
from vegetable oil and vegetable glycerin with the addition of vegetable
stearic acid, emulsifier, thickening agent
Glycine
from
soy oil, a naturally occuring amino acid vital to collagen composition
and production,emollient
Glycine
Soja
oil
from ( non-genetically modified ) soybeans, emollient, good source
of Vitamin E, antioxidant, easily absorbed by the skin
FDA
approved, skin-friendly sunscreen which has full spectrum protection
against sun damage
Honey
humectant,
attracts moisture from the air, moisturizing, helps prevent wrinkles
Honeysuckle
cleanser,
purifier,good for inflamed skin, smoothes, softens skin
Horehound
plant,
soothing, aromatic, good for inflamed skin
Horse
Chestnut
extract
from a flowering tree, increases blood circulation, anti-inflammatory,
astringent
Horsetail
herb
high in silica, firms skin and promotes healing, in hair products,
strengthens the hair shaft, adds shine and elasticity, rich in minerals
Humectant
ingredient
that attracts water from the air to the skin
Hyaluronic
Acid
a
naturally occuring component of skin, fantastic hydrator, helps remove
fine lines, emollient, anti-inflammatory, softens and returns elasticity
to skin exposed to sun, regenerates aging skin, humectant, collegen
and elastin supporter, derived from vegetable source (sugar beets
and soy)
minimizes fine lines and wrinkles, helps mend hair follicle
Hydrolyzed
Wheat Protein
protein
from wheat which has been turned partly into water through hydrolysis,
attracts and retains moisture, minimizes fine lines and wrinkles,
mends the hair folicle
Hydroxyethyl
Cellulose
compound
derived from plant fiber used as a thickening agent, emulsifier,
emollient
from
the jasmine flower, used for fragrance, soothes and calms, antiseptic
and anti-inflammatory properties, good for dry, sensitive skin, uplifting
Jasminum
Officinale
jasmine
extract, aromatic, soothes and calms, antiseptic, anti-inflammatory,
good for dry, sensitive skin
Jewelweed
Extract
herb,
soothes skin, healing properties, good for inflamed skin
Jojoba
Oil
from
the seed of the jojoba shrub, similar to the skin's natural oil,
nature's most effective moisturizer, healing, excellent scalp treatment,
mild for sensitive skin, antioxidant
Jojoba
Spheres
a
semi-solid fraction of jojoba oil, natural exfoliant used in body
wash and shower gels, face scrubs, etc
lavender,
has a calming, soothing effect, regenerates and repairs cells, antiseptic,
anti-bacterial, anti-fungal, balances and heals, regulates skin functions
on all skin types, energizing
Lecithin
from
soybeans, contains natural phospholipids, moisturizer, emulsifier,
antioxidant, emollient, humectant, nourishing for the skin, penetrating
agent
Lemon Eucalyptus
natural insect repellant
Lemon Oil
refreshing,
uplifting, stimulating, fragrant
Lemon
Verbena
herb,
good for problem skin, purifying, calming, antiseptic, soothing,
uplifting
Lemonbalm
herb,
also known as balm mint, good for oily hair, skin toner, calming,
soothing, skin balancing, detoxifying
chamomile
flower, soothing, good for inflamed, sensitive skin, conditioning
for hair
Meadowfoam
Oil
from
meadowfoam seeds, moisturizing, ultraviolet protection, rejuvenates
and adds shine to dry or damaged hair, easily absorbed by the skin, anti-aging
Meadowfoam Seed Oil
moisturizing, rejuvenating, reduces the signs of aging
Melaleuca
Alternifolia
tea
tree oil, antiseptic, antibacterial, cleansing, treatment for acne
Melanin
synthetic,
water soluable melanin from aloe vera plant, self tanner, antioxidant,
protects against sun damage
Melissa
Officinalis
lemon
balm, also balm mint, good for oily hair, skin toner, calming, soothing,
antibacterial, skin balancing
Mentha
piperita
peppermint
oil, used as a flavoring, stimulating, antiseptic
Mentha Pulegium
Penyroyal: herbal antiseptic and long used insect repellant
anti-inflammatory,
herbal treatment for dandruff, stimulates hair growth, improves the
condition of the scalp, reduces the appearance of dark circles and
wrinkles
Nymphaea
Odorata Root Extract
water
lily, astringent, antiseptic, toning, restorative
forms
an invisible layer over the skin to retain moisture, promotes the
repair of skin cells, antioxidant, reduces irritation and inflammation,
smoothing
Oat
Protein Complex
reduces
irritation and inflammation, humectant, increases hydration, smooths
fine lines and wrinkles, protects and conditions hair, reduces sunburn
cell formation
Oatmeal
cleanses,
exfoliates, softens and soothes skin, emollient, antioxidant, anti-wrinkle
Oatstraw
herb,
exfoliating, soothing to the skin, stimulates healthy hair
Ocimum Basilicum
Basil: restorative herb, stimulates skin’s circulation and oil glands, healing and soothing
Octinoxate
FDA
approved sunscreen, a.k.a.octylmethoxycinnamate, UVB protection
Octisalate
FDA
approved sunscreen, a.k.a.octyl salicylate, UVB protection
Octyl
Methoxycinnamate
FDA
approved sunscreen, UVB protection, a.k.a. octinoxate
Octyl
Salicylate
FDA
approved sunscreen, UVB protection, anti-bacterial, a.k.a.octisalate
Olea
Europea
olive
oil, moisturizing, softening, very compatible with human skin, stimulates
and heals skin, tones and firms
Olefin
Sulfonate
very
mild foaming agent, surfactant
Olive
Butter
derived
from olive oil combined with hydrogenated vegetable oil, similar
in feel to shea butter, emollient, antioxidant
Olive
Leaf
herb,
antioxidant, anti-bacterial, anti-viral
Olive
Oil
moisturizing,
softening, very compatible with human skin, stimulates and heals
skin, tones and firms
essential
oil derived from a particular type of grass, rejuvenates mature skin,
hydrating, good for both oily and dry skin, anti-fungal, anti-viral,
purifying, calming, balancing, skin tonic,uplifting
Panthenol
also
known as Vitamin B5, a stable form of pantothenic acid, humectant,
good for cell regeneration, good for hydration, an emollient in hair
products
Panthenyl
Hydroxypropyl Steardimonium Chloride
Vitamin
B5 conditioner, moisturizing for skin and hair, derived from rice
extract, anti-static agent
Passionfruit
tropical
fruit essence, soothes, rejuvenates, aphrodisiac qualities
Patchouli
Oil
aromatic
oil, cooling, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, astringent, useful
for scalp and skin conditions, uplifting, balancing, energizing,
clarifying